You probably know that Isan is the very North Eastern part of Thailand (that wide area that sticks out to the right!) covering around twenty provinces. Isan is off the tourist trail, extremely rural, under-developed in most areas and you just may not have any reason to go there, but in case that you decide to, I have written this blog post. The purpose of my journey was to visit my brother’s place, not in search of vegetarian food specifically, so this is what I came across in everyday life.
I should also like to add that I strongly recommend a visit to Isan, you will get to experience the real Thailand that those only on the tourist trail will not. The culture is quite different and is a refreshing break from the tourism that takes over in the more popular areas. I still have a lot of the region to cover myself.
Vegetarians or vegans do not need to panic. Whilst vegetarianism is less common in Isan, it can still be understood and catered for. I can fairly confidently guess that every province (I say guess, because I haven’t been to all of them) has at least one Thai jey store. I know that the big provinces such as Khon Kaen, Khorat and Ubon Ratchathani have several. Khon Kaen even offers my favourite one as previously detailed here. But you will need to eat in the evening too.
‘Smile Bar’ in Ubon Ractchathani is a large restaurant and buzzing night time spot that offers live local music and indoor and outdoor seating and makes a generally very pleasant evening. Their menu offers little vegetarian food, don’t be but off, please just ask. They had no problem with us requesting curries and asking for them to be without the meat – ...jey, they asked? Confirmed. http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restaurant_Review-g656472-d3714368-Reviews-Smile_Pub_Restaurant-Ubon_Ratchathani_Ubon_Ratchathani_Province.html
A different experience is ‘The Outside Inn’, (also in Ubon) which is another favourite of mine. It is a small Thai-foreign owned Guest House and restaurant just out of the city near the airport. They offer Thai, Western and Mexican food as well as cocktails, beers, wine and spirits. It is a cute and characterful place with accommodating staff whom really make an effort. They have plenty of vegetarian options in their menu, and whilst the vegan options aren’t indicated – just ask! They will be happy to oblige. The tofu burrito (featured in the cover) is excellent. http://www.theoutsideinnubon.com
The Klim Hotel in Buriram is a small but amazing hotel with an equally amazing restaurant. I cannot rave enough about this hotel. It is my favourite hotel that I have found in the whole of Thailand so far. I look forward to visiting here every time I pass through and I even make a special trip to the province just so that I can visit this hotel again. It honestly is that good. Their Klim Kitchen never disappoints me either. http://www.klimhotel.com/
Cabbages and Condoms which is quite a famous chain of restaurants that has a branch in Khorat and it actually has jey options listed. The red curry is excellent, especially if you like your curry spicy! http://www.cabbagesandcondoms.com/restaurant.php
Even in the reasonably small town of Kantharalak, (70km south of Ubon Ractchathani and an equal distance south of Si Saket) I found a lovely restaurant called Ponchai where I could get red or green curry (these weren’t on the menu at all, I had to ask for them and THEN ask for it to be jey!) as well as several other dishes. I also found a small German-Thai owned pizza place where they were very happy to make vegetarian pizza for my brother and no cheese vegan pizza for me.
If you do travel through Isan, just remember not to be put off by the menu. The people are lovely and if they haven’t got what you want on the menu, just ask! They might be able to make it for you, and if they can’t, they will manage to make something jey for you, for sure.
If you travel to Isaan by car, you must surely be traveling through Phethchabun to get there. You simply must stop at ‘ROUTE 12’ which is just off the Route 12 high way through Phitsanulok to Phethcabun (near Khao Kho.) It is a small restaurant and shop complex designed in ROUTE 66 fashion that has a vegan ice cream store. Whenever I travel to Isan, this is a must-stop. It is so delicious! It even has an organic health store next to it that sells oils, teas, products, herbs and more.
Personal recommendations for Isan (from my current knowledge) would be:
Ubon Ratchathani - Great restaurants and shopping Nakorn Ratchasima (Khorat) – A truly unique and authentic Thai experience, has a fantastic park for those in to fitness or picnics Khon Kaen – Has everything you could want from a city and great nightlife scene Buriram – Quaint, cute and boasts my personal favourite Klim Hotel
Points to remember:
In restaurants, don’t be afraid to ask for what you want Watch out for the language as the local dialect is different from everyday Thai Expect adverse weather conditions
Thanks to my two trusty friends for doing the trip with me. Gazelle the Honda and Ms Teee the dog.
Cheers!
Dee
x
